The famous rail network deserves mention. It’s extensive, and the trains are frequent, fast, and punctual. In fact it all seems a bit obsessive, and a bit cramping, too, really, if—as a tourist—you just want to maintain a casual pace. And of course we all know who else made the trains run on time.

Indeed, subtle hints of a fascistic public spirit can be found everywhere. Two simple examples: outdoor vending machines are common, and there are clean and plentiful toilets in all subway stations. These facilities would not be possible in North America, where the machines would be burgled and the toilets vandalized. So how did the Japanese become beaten down to such a degree that these amenities became possible?

If you want to call that peaceable, go ahead. But the realist sees only broken spirits.

And let’s not forget the many practical problems faced by the visitor. The Japanese are too small. I banged my head a good deal. Also, the Japanese don’t speak English. Everyone else has picked up at least a bit of English by now, so that’s just spitefulness.

Also, I got a sunburn.

You might argue that the last one is my own fault, but you would be wrong.

In sum, it would be easy to come to the view that Japan is a beautiful and welcoming country, a nation highly advanced both technologically and culturally. You might even start to suspect that Japan is superior to North America in many ways, or maybe all ways. You might start to think about picking up your life and moving to a place where people treat each other with respect, where life is comfortable and crime nonexistent, and where pretty girls notice you.

Not that I thought any of those things myself. I saw through all that.